After our visit to Hiroshima, we boarded the Sanyo Shinkansen (山陽新幹線/ Sanyo bullet train) bound for Hakata—a swift journey that took just about an hour. As it was late January, the train glided past snow-covered towns and quiet mountain ranges in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Nestled in the warmth of our seats, we watched the landscape blur into soft whites and greys.
Dazaifu Tenmangu
Just after arriving at Hakata Station, we made our way to Dazaifu Tenmangu (太宰府天満宮), one of Japan’s most revered shrines dedicated to academic success. Students and families from across the country and abroad come here to pray for good fortune in their academic success such as entrance exams—be it for university, high school, or any important test. The shrine’s charms, known as omamori (お守り), are especially popular gifts for children and friends, carrying heartfelt wishes for achievement and perseverance.
According to Dazaifu Tenmangu’s official history, the shrine was built over the grave of Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真, 845–903), a Heian-period scholar, poet, and statesman. After his unjust exile from Kyoto, Michizane passed away in Dazaifu, and was later deified as Tenjin (天神), the Shinto god of learning, culture, and the arts. Michizane had a deep affection for plum blossoms, and today, Tenjin shrines across Japan are closely associated with plum trees. Dazaifu Tenmangu is home to over 6,000 plum trees, all donated from across the country. Each winter, their blossoms transform the grounds into a sea of soft pink and white.
Kyushu National Museum
Dazaifu Tenmangu unfolds across a vast, beautifully maintained landscape, with serene gardens that invite slow, reflective strolls. After wandering through its plum-lined paths and tranquil ponds, we continued on foot—just five minutes away—to the striking glass structure of the Kyushu National Museum (九州国立博物館). This expansive museum offers a wide range of exhibitions, but we focused on the Cultural Exchange Exhibition Hall on the fourth floor. Spanning 3,900 square meters, the permanent collection traces Japan’s historical interactions with Asia and Europe through art, artifacts, and storytelling.
We spent nearly two hours exploring, yet it felt like only a glimpse. There was simply too much to absorb in one visit. I’ll definitely return—to linger longer, and to complete the journey through centuries of cultural dialogue.
Each exhibition at the Kyushu National Museum includes English explanations alongside the Japanese descriptions, making the experience accessible to international visitors. They also offer multilingual audio guides through their official app, allowing you to explore the exhibits in your preferred language. Even if you’re not a Japanese speaker, you can still enjoy the rich cultural displays and stories with ease.
The photo on the left shows a Kazariyama (飾り山笠)—a decorative float from the Hakata Gion Yamakasa (博多祇園山笠) Festival, held every July in Fukuoka. With a history spanning over 780 years, this festival is one of Japan’s most iconic summer traditions. According to Fukuoka Now, Kazariyama can reach up to 15 meters in height, towering with intricate figures and vibrant storytelling.
We were lucky to see one of these magnificent Kazariyama displayed on the first floor of the Kyushu National Museum in January 2024. Standing next to it, you could feel the weight of craftsmanship!
Saifu Udon
After visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, we found Haginoya, a charming udon restaurant just steps from Dazaifu station, was still open around 3:00 p.m. for a late lunch. Known for its traditional saifu udon, this spot has long been beloved by locals and visitors alike. According to Haginoya, their udon is made from wheat that’s carefully ground using a traditional stone mill (石臼/ いしうす)—a method deeply rooted in Dazaifu’s heritage. In fact, Dazaifu is known as one of the historical origins of stone mill in Japan, where the slow, circular grinding preserves the wheat’s natural sweetness and texture.
I ordered the Yamakake udon, a silky bowl topped with grated yam and served with a gentle plum accent—an unmissable combination when in Dazaifu, where plum blossoms and famous for plum meals.
Tenjin
We headed back to Fukuoka’s center, the commercial district area called Tenjin (天神), where there are quite a few big shopping centers, restaurants, and companies. The streets are lively and full of energy, with people flowing in and out of department stores and cafés. As the sun went down, we walked along the Nakagawa River (那珂川). It was quite beautiful at night—reflecting the lights from the buildings, the water shimmered softly, creating a peaceful contrast to the busy city around it.
Tenjin is quite famous for its local fresh food, and with so many restaurant options, choosing where to eat can feel like a delicious dilemma. Luckily, we had a kind friend whose hometown is close to Tenjin—they gave us a few trusted recommendations to narrow down our choices. We ended up at Yushi (遊心), a cozy spot known for its gyoza (餃子/dumplings), celebrated for their light and soft texture. Each dish we ordered was thoughtfully prepared, and we were genuinely satisfied with the dinner.
