On our second day in Fukuoka, we boarded a highway bus bound for Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉), nestled in the mountains of Kumamoto Prefecture (熊本県). The journey took about three hours, winding through scenic countryside before arriving at this serene hot spring town. Kurokawa Onsen is renowned for its mineral-rich waters, lush natural surroundings, and the charming variety of ryokans (旅館) One of the most unique features here is the Onsen Tegata (温泉手形)—a wooden pass that allows visitors to enjoy different types of baths across multiple ryokans. With it in hand, you can wander from one bathhouse to another.
Getting to Kurokawa Onsen from Central Fukuoka
- By car – Approximately 2 hours of scenic driving through the countryside.
- By bus – About 3 hours from Nishitetsu Tenjin Express Bus Terminal (西鉄天神高速バスターミナル) to Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉) bus stop.
Depending on the season, it’s wise to book your bus tickets in advance. When we tried to reserve seats three weeks ahead of our travel date, only a few were left. We opted for the bus—not just for comfort, but also because of the weather. Kurokawa Onsen is nestled in the mountains, and in winter, snowfall is common. To avoid navigating winding, snowy roads, we chose the safer and more relaxing route.
Before boarding, we spent some time at the Nishitetsu Tenjin Express Bus Terminal, which turned out to be surprisingly comfortable. Located inside a large shopping complex, the terminal offers a clean and spacious seating area, perfect for a short rest. There’s even a Starbucks nearby, ideal for grabbing a coffee before the journey.
So Many Beautiful Ryokans—How We Chose in Kurokawa Onsen
Kurokawa Onsen is filled with charming ryokans, each offering its own unique experience, which made choosing just one quite difficult. After much consideration, we decided to stay two nights at Wakaba Ryokan (わかば旅館), drawn by its welcoming, home-like atmosphere we saw on social media and its rooms with private baths that fit our budget.
The ryokan exceeded our expectations. Our room’s bath was serene and soothing, and the public bath offered a peaceful retreat. Dinner was a highlight—local fish grilled over at the hearth, called Robatayaki (炉端焼き). The combination of fresh regional ingredients and the gentle crackle of the fire made it a truly memorable experience.
Just a heads-up—dinner styles differ depending on your plan. We recommend checking the details of your booking to know what’s included.
A Unique System You Shouldn’t Miss: Nyuto Tegata (入湯手形)
If you love onsen, Nyuto Tegata is a must-try experience in Kurokawa Onsen. For 1,500 yen, you can purchase this wooden pass, which allows you to visit three different rotenburo (open-air baths) across participating ryokans. Upon purchase, you’ll receive a map showing the 25 ryokans where the pass is accepted. This system is especially unique because many of these baths are normally reserved for overnight guests—Nyuto Tegata opens the doors to day visitors, offering a rare chance to explore the town’s bathing culture. And if you’re feeling too relaxed to hop into another bath, some ryokans even let you exchange one stamp for a drink or small treat instead. It’s a flexible, thoughtful way to enjoy the onsen town at your own pace.
Night Stroll at Kurokawa Onsen – Yuakari (湯あかり)
In winter, the onsen town transforms into a dreamlike landscape, softly illuminated by spherical bamboo lanterns known as 鞠灯篭 (Mari Tōrō). These glowing orbs line on the river and pathways, casting a warm, mystical light across the snow-covered town. Though the night was cold and snow had piled along the paths, the gentle orange glow of the lanterns wrapped the town in a quiet warmth. It felt like walking through a living painting—serene, timeless, and deeply moving.
This illumination is available only in the limited term, please check the schedule on this website: Kurokawa Onsen Yuakari.